"...the ornithologists still had serious doubts. Sutton finally put it directly: 'Mr. Spencer, you're sure the bird you're telling us about isn't the big pileated woodpecker?'

"Spencer exploded. 'Man alive! These birds I'm tellin' you all about is kints!' he shouted in their faces. 'Why, the pileated woodpecker's just a little bird about as big as that.' He held his fingers a few inches apart. 'A kint's as big as that!' he said, holding his arms wide... 'Why, man, I've known kints all my life. My pappy showed 'em to me when I was just a kid. I see 'em every fall when I go deer huntin' down aroun' my place on the Tinsaw. They're big birds, I tell you, big and black and white; and they fly through the woods like pintail ducks!'

"After Spencer's outburst, the members of the team were all believers -- not just because of his vehemence, but because his description was so accurate. Ivory-bills do not have the typical bounding flight of the pileated woodpecker. They generally fly away high and straight, with stiff flight feathers, looking very much like a pintail, and their call is a distinctive nasal kent, kent, kent -- very similar to the local name Spencer used, kint. Sutton and the others couldn't wait to get to the bayou and start searching.

"As it turned out, that was not an easy proposition..." --Gallagher, Tim. The Grail Bird: Hot on the Trail of the Ivory-billed Woodpecker, pp. 10-11: "Of People and Peckerwoods."

Thursday, September 11, 2014

Excursion: The Feathered Way: Tallahala WMA, 11 September 2014

IBWO's:  Brian Carlisle, Christopher Carlisle.

SUMMARY:  Bienville National Forest, in central Mississippi, rivals in size its mighty sibling the DeSoto further to the south.  I have not had much experience with Bienville, aside from passing through it from time to time:  it is rather remote, lying more or less between Jackson and Meridian, mostly to the south of Interstate 20.  (Ain't much up that way.)  However, I have grown curious of late about the southeastern corner of Bienville, where lies the Tallahala Wildlife Management Area.  There the Tallahala and other creeks flow southward, eventually joining the Leaf River.  Tallahala Creek is, from what I have been able to survey from various bridges in the area, a typically rugged Southern waterway, often flooding its banks during the cooler months, and catching my attention with views of tall sycamores, cypress, spruce pine, and hardwoods.  I have often imagined Ivorybills using the myriad creeks and rivers of the South as highways connecting larger tracts of suitable habitat.  The problem in investigating the viability of this scenario is usually one of access.  Many of this area's waterways, such as the Chickasawhay, are almost completely hemmed in by private land, making access to the riparian habitat all but impossible.  I was drawn to the Tallahala WMA section of Bienville because it is on public land; further, a quick survey of Google Earth showed it to be almost completely forested, with little or no human activity such as farming or timber harvesting within its bounds.  There are to my knowledge no records of Ivorybills in the Bienville, though it falls within the species' greater historical range.  Nevertheless, I felt it important to investigate for the reasons outlined above.

Brian and I got, for us, a late start (7:30).  Travelling north on Mississippi Highway 15, we drove first to Bay Springs, then to the progressively smaller enclaves of Louin and Montrose before turning west into Bienville.  Immediately we encountered a vast pine plantation, much of which was very young, interspersed by small creeks shrouded occasionally by groves of hardwoods.  Further into Bienville, in the Tallahala WMA itself, rose impressive stands of shortleaf/loblolly pine, dominating the landscape there much as its graceful cousin, the longleaf, does in the DeSoto.  I was disheartened by the monoculture, but we drove on, until we found a forest road barred to vehicle traffic that led southward, between two creeks.

It was already hot and humid when we began, but the going was easy.  There are no banana spiders in that area of Bienville.  I almost missed them.  The forest understory there is, I pleasantly found, dominated by white oaks, their pale boles contrasting nicely with the darker trunks of the pines.  Some of the latter bore sign of long-ago fire.  Good numbers of post oak and water oak grow there, too, along with hickory, sweet gum, and dogwood.  Some water oaks were of sufficient girth to catch our attention, but most (if not all) of the hardwoods were less than fifty years old, most of them much younger.

We saw almost no wildlife, save wild turkeys.  We saw two on the trail itself, and two on the highway leading into the WMA.  We came across their tracks and several of their distinctive feathers on the trail, and many other feathers besides, including several from what must have been a hawk, or possibly an owl.  An eastern wood pewee was the only other bird we took note of, and the rest of the birds were quiet, save for the far-off laughter of pileateds.  Due to the prevalence of white oak, which produces large acorns, the area must fairly abound with game animals.

We finally turned around when it became apparent that the road led to nowhere in particular, and the heat was beginning to get to be a bit much.  The hike there and back to the truck was probably around 4-5 miles.  We drove back to Laurel, and had roast beef sandwiches at Jitters Coffee House, courtesy of the lovely barista with red hair and green eyes.


Typcial scene in our area of the Tallahala WMA. 

Brian spotted this, probably Pileated work, in a grove of small dead oaks.   

 White oak (Quercus alba), just right of center.  One of my favorite trees.



Brian spotted these two cavities high up in a living white oak.  Possibly pileated work, though they seemed a smidge too small. 


One of several turkey feathers we found on the road. 

A sure sign that the Southern autumn is near:  goldenrod in flower.

Great hunter, yes?  Yes. 

For my vanity staff.

CONCLUSIONS:  Having found no sign there even remotely suggestive of Ivorybills, I have satisfied my curiousity about the Tallahala WMA, and about Bienville National Forest.  I do not believe the habitat there currently supports Ivorybills, though it may become better suited to do so if allowed to mature in the decades to come.  I will turn my attention back southward, to the Pascagoula River and its more immediate tributaries.

Next week:  Black Creek Wilderness.  Forecast:  Rain.  

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Close Survey: Where the Whang-Doodle Mourneth for His First-Born: The Lands East of Hutson Lake, 3 September 2014

IBWOH:  Christopher Carlisle.

Summary:  Hoping for a drier, less aquatic experience, I hiked the extensive logging roads to the east of Hutson Lake, in the Pascagoula WMA.  The hike took me on a nearly constant southward trajectory, ending at the lake with the giant hollow cypress, who I have named Hollow Man; beyond lies another small muddy lake, which I was unwilling to hike to.  The dawn came late, with clouds from the night's rains lingering until after 7 a.m.   Still, though it was humid, the hike was pleasant enough.  I moved slowly, stopping every 15-20 yards or so to listen, and carefully scanning the trees for cavities and signs of scaling.  This is my method, the Close Survey, similar to the method I used to employ in my squirrel hunts, and which also seems to have been (with some variation) the method of ivorybill searchers in the past.  

A dominant tree species in this area is the water oak, which I do not believe is generally favored by the Ivorybill; but equally abundant are large sweet gums, which I do believe are a favored species.  Swamp chestnut oak is common here, as is red oak, with white oak slightly less so; there are occasional groves of laurel oak and willow oak, and there are at least two old live oaks easily spotted from the trail, one with some scaling evident on a high bough.  Spruce pine is common, with no other species of pine evident.  Strangely, I found no magnolia or sweetbay.  I also encountered no tulip poplar.  Baldcypress is, of course, present in great numbers, along with water tupelo.  Beech (some impressive specimens) and river birch lurk in odd corners near lakes and sloughs.

Pileated and red-bellied woodpeckers were up early, but I did not hear the redheads until somehwhat later. I spied many birds, including yellow-billed cuckoos, a Kentucky warbler, Carolina wrens, and summer tanagers; but they did not seem as active as they used.  Autumn approaches.

 Slough, not far from the trailhead.  It is probably the same winding slough that defeated Richard and I, and claimed my old cell phone.


 Scaling near the trail.


 I revisited the scaling Brian and I had discovered before.







 Golden silk orb-weaver Nephila clavipes, or banana spider.

 Exposed scaling on sweet gum at trailside.  I could find no evidence of another tree having fallen and sloughing the bark off.

 Swamp chestnut oak, showing possible sign of blight.

 Many swamp chestnut oaks in the area were similarly affected.

 Lower bole scaling of this type seems to occur mainly on sweet gum.  On spruce pine, the scaling seldom goes all the way around the tree.






 Note the "clipped" look of the vines.  This leads me to suspect it to be the work of a beaver despite the distance (200-300 yards) from any water source.


Scaling to a young white oak.





Rootings of hog.

Fresh wallow of hog.

South end of north-bound hog. 

Scaling to live oak bough.  Unfortunately, the low light of early morning prevented me from getting a better picture. 

 Cardinal flower.  One of my favorites. 



 Old scaling, 20-30 feet up a sweet gum.


 Romalea guttata, or Eastern lubber grasshopper.  Black adult color phase.  Very common in this area.

 My momma calls 'em "Devil horses."

 Nice cavity in a live water oak.


 A female Prothonotary Warbler, checking me out.

 More scaling.  I could not identify the tree species.

 Hollow Man (left).  I did not disturb his repose this day.



 Furthest extent of the day's hike for me.  I would not wade this slough for a better look at the lake beyond.

 Hog butt imprint.

About halfway back on the return hike, I began to hear the high, forlorn yowls of some lonely creature from the direction of the River, and which followed me for some two hundred yards through the bottomland.  It may have been a bobcat, or a coyote, or a fox; but I thought of my old Professor of Mississippi History at the University of Southern Mississippi, the redoubtable John Edmond Gonzales, the biographer of Senator Lucius Quintus Cincinnatus Lamar.  One day, during our survey of the history of the Great State of Mississippi, Doctor Gonzales held forth regarding Religion in our fair state; and he offered up this gem of oratory, taken from The Harp of a Thousand Strings; or, Laughter for a Lifetime, ed. S.P. Avery, and supposedly gleaned by the latter from a collection of travelling preachers' tales, or parodies thereof:

"Bretheren and sisteren, I do not come before you this evening to engage in any grammar talk or college high-falutin' but I come to prepare a pervarse generation for the day of wrath, and my text, when you find it, you'll find it 'twixt the lids of this old Bible, from the first chapter of Second Chronicles to the last chapter of Timothy-Titus, and when you find it, you'll find it in these words, 'And they shall gnaw a file, and flee into the mountains of Hespudam, where the lion roareth, and the whang-doodle mourneth for its first-born,' ahhh." [Here the preacher breathes out a deep 'ahhh,' for added effect, supposedly.]
     "Now, my bretheren and sisteren, there's different kinds of files.  There's the rat-tailed file, and there's the handsaw file, and there's the crosscut file, and there's the profile and the defile... but the text says, 'they shall gnaw a file, and flee into the mountains of Hespudam, where the lion roareth, and the whang-doodle mourneth for its first-born,' ahh.
     "And brethren and sisteren, there are many kinds of dams.  There's Amsterdam, and then there's Rotterdam, and there's Beaverdam, but the last of all and the worst of all, my bretheren, is "I don't give a damn," but the text says that 'They shall gnaw a file, and flee into the mountains of Hespudam, where the lion roareth and the whang-doodle mourneth for its first-born,' ahh.
     "Now, my bretheren and sisteren, this reminds me of the man who lived upon the north fork of Little Pine Creek in Madison County, North Carolina.  He had a little mill, but he ground a heap of corn, but one night the fountain of the great deep was broken up, and the windows of heaven were opened and the rains descended, the winds came and washed that little man's mill to Kingdom Come.  He got up the next morning and told the good old wife of his bosom that he wasn't worth a damn!  But the text says that 'they shall gnaw a file, and flee into the mountains of Hespudam, where the lion roareth, and the whang-doodle mourneth for its first-born,' ahh.
     "My bretheren and sisteren, this doesn't mean the howling wilderness where John the Hardshelled Baptist fed on locusts and wild asses, but it means the City of New Orleans, the mother of harlots and hard-lots, where corn is six bits a bushel one day and nary a red the next, and where thieves and pickpockets go skitting about like weasels in a barnyard, and where honest men are scarcer n'hen's teeth, and where a woman once took up your beloved preacher and bamboozled him out of a hundred and twenty-seven plunks in three jerks of the eye and the twinkling of a sheep's tail, but she can't do it again, hallelujah!"

Strange, how old threads of memory waft up out of their dustbin at odd whiles.  So, with the Singing River and the yowls of the whang-doodle behind me, and thoughts of John Edmond Gonzales and my days as an academic in my mind, I left the swamp again, to search for the Ivorybill another day. 

 Juvenile Little Blue Heron.

 IBWO-1, always a welcome sight after a hot day on the trail.

 Juvenile white ibis.

Conclusions:  This will be the last survey I will make of the Hutson Lake area of the Pascagoula WMA until leaf-fall later in Autumn.  Hopefully, more bark scaling and cavities will be visible then.  My next IBWO survey area:  Black Creek, for which there is an IBWO encounter (kents) on record from the 1970's.

 Black Creek landing, between Benndale and Wiggins.

 Looking downstream, where after many miles Black Creek eventually joins Red Creek before emptying into the Pascagoula River.